We know what you're thinking! Another spline standard...
While Twist! V2.0 has its own spline standard based on BB30, we also have developed a revolutionary Adapt-R spline system that can convert our spline to virtually any spline out there.
How does the Adapt-R system work?
These Adapt-R's are laser cut pieces of aerospace grade titanium plate that slide over the threaded spline of the Twist! V2.0 cranks. These can be pressed into the spline of your chainring. Both get locked down with our retainer ring that threads onto the outside of our spline. It takes a common Park BBT-59.2 tool to tighten the retainer ring. Those tools can be found at most bike shops or on Amazon. We also have the ability to make spacers to help you fine adjust your chainline.
The Adapt-R will allow Twist! V2.0 to interoperate with many existing chainrings while also quickly adapting to changes in standards, new standards, or even lesser known standards. Don't see the spline you want offered? Let us know, and we can see about making it. Once we've made the first one, we've got the machine code to cut however many more we want. Super simple!
Can I change out Adapt-R's?
Yes! That is the other great thing about our new system. You can grab multiple Adapt-R's and easily swap them out so that your new favorite pair of cranks can work with ALL of your favorite chainrings. Mix and match in the future by ordering more as you need them!
I don't see any bottom bracket spindles in the store. Where do I get some?
At this time, we are not selling bottom bracket spindles. The ones you want to get are spindles from SI, Cannondale, or Ignite Components. RaceFace and Easton and others have some but are usually longer lengths. Some are referred to as Cinch and are 30mm diameter at the bearing area. All can be found on their respective company websites or on Amazon or other bike part sites. Some come with bolts while others don't, but we offer bolts if you need them. Be sure the splines line up to each other side to side, as some manufacturers make some that are offset from one side to the other by 22.5 degrees. Stages and SRAM make an offset one that won't work on these cranks.
I ride my bike HARD. Will the threads on the spline itself get destroyed?
Doubt it. Our spline has land at the bottom where the adapter/chainring mounts, which takes the torsional stress off of the threads. Also, spline has 3 small lobes that allow for massive thread surface area. That combined with a thick retainer ring means that you can tighten it down so that it is absolutely rock solid.
How is the clearance?
The lower Q-factor allows about a quarter inch more ankle clearance than a popular titanium tubular crank on the market. This while having more chainring clearance as well!
Most Road bikes take a spindle around 109mm long and Mountain Bikes around 125mm. Spacing can vary with bike geometry and bottom bracket hardware. Use the drawing above to help dial it in. Use spindle spacers as necessary to get the chainline you want.
How do I remove the cranks?
The easiest way is to use a tool called the SI (Cannondale) Crank Removal tool. It looks like this:
After the normal crank bolt is removed, the crank puller needs something to push against. The removal tool plug (the part on the right) has the same M18 x 1 threads that screw into the spindle. The plug is screwed into the spindle until it's about flush. The outer M22 x 1 threaded part is screwed in until it bottoms, and the plug is unscrewed by way of an 8mm Allen wrench that goes through the center hole in the outer part. The unscrewing motion lifts the crank off.
Note that the M22 x 1 thread is the same as the dust cap thread on old school square taper cranks, so an older crank remover can work when combined with either the inner plug or just something to push against the spindle such as 2 pennies stacked.
What are the Torque recommendations?
Spindle bolts are 25-30 Ft Lbs (34-41 Nm) and retainer rings are 40-52 Ft Lbs (50-70Nm)